Mounts of Gambarogno

Perched on the sun-drenched slopes above Lake Maggiore, the Monti del Gambarogno are a string of tiny hamlets connected by a comfortable hillside trail that delivers one dazzling panorama after another. From the glittering waters of the lake to the elegant curves of the Locarno and Ascona bays, this gentle walk reveals a quieter, more intimate side of Ticino, where traditional stone buildings nestle among woods and meadows, and the only roofing material you need is rye straw.

Itinerary: Mounts of Gambarogno (3h, see map)

The excursion begins with a scenic boat crossing from Locarno to Magadino, followed by a bus ride toward Indemini. Alight at Monti di Fosano-Bivio Piazzogna. From here, roughly half an hour on a gentle road brings you to the Monti di Vairano. Another hour on the trail leads to the Monti di Gerra. These small settlements, now cherished as holiday retreats, preserve clusters of traditional buildings tucked between chestnut woods, wildflower meadows, and sun-warmed courtyards. Each hamlet lies about an hour's walk from the next, creating a pleasant, unhurried rhythm.

Beyond Gerra, the path reaches the Monti di Sant'Abbondio and then the Monti di Caviano, known locally as Centocampi ("A Hundred Fields"). This is the only place in Ticino where you can find houses topped with traditional hay roofs. As farming activities waned, these distinctive structures fell into disrepair, but a dedicated restoration effort revived several roofs using the original technique: lightweight but resilient rye straw, woven and fixed to chestnut-wood beams.

A steep descent brings you to Scaiano and Dirinella. To return to Locarno by boat, walk another 15 to 20 minutes along the cantonal road to Ranzo. Alternatively, catch a bus from Dirinella to Magadino and take the boat from there. The excursion can be easily shortened, as each mountain settlement is linked by trail to the lakeside villages below, all connected to Locarno by boat during the tourist season.