Intragna-Loco Mule Path

Centuries ago, this cobbled mule path was the lifeline between the Centovalli and Onsernone valleys, trodden by farmers driving cattle to summer pastures and villagers heading to market in Locarno. Today, the Via delle Vose offers one of Ticino's finest half-day walks: an easy, often shaded route through lush green countryside, past beautifully preserved villages, richly decorated churches, and ethnographic museums that bring the valleys' past vividly to life. All the while, the Isorno river murmurs through its gorge below, a constant companion on this journey between two worlds.

Itinerary: Intragna-Loco (3h, see map)

The mule path linking Intragna and Loco, known as the Via delle Vose, dates from before the 16th century. It served as a vital artery for valley dwellers reaching the Locarno and Ascona markets and for driving cattle to the Onsernone alpine pastures each summer. The route stretches just over 7 kilometres and takes roughly 3 hours of walking, though you will want to allow extra time for the many points of interest along the way: well-preserved hamlets, churches, chapels, and museums.

Intragna, the starting point, is easily reached by car or aboard the charming Centovallina railway from Locarno. The village merits a visit in its own right. The parish church dedicated to San Gottardo still houses 19th-century pictorial decorations by local artists Giacomo Antonio Pedrazzi, Giovanni Antonio Vanoni, and Agostino Balestra. Beside it rises Ticino's tallest bell tower at 65 metres, and the 16th-century "Casa Maggetti" shelters a well-preserved ethnographic museum.

From the parish church, follow a narrow alley to the 19th-century oratory of the Sacro Cuore, where the mule path begins in earnest. After a thirty-minute climb you reach Pila, an old settlement where rustic stone cottages with slate roofs nestle among meadows and orchards. An abandoned school near the trail recalls the days when this hamlet was home to many families. The view is breathtaking: the village below, the entrances to Centovalli and Onsernone, the Terre di Pedemonte, and the shimmering expanse of Lake Maggiore in the distance. The path continues to Vosa, another hamlet of Intragna, graced by an oratory. In the distance you can hear the Isorno river flowing through its gorge, lending meaning to Intragna's name: "intra amnes," between two rivers, the Isorno and the Melezza. At Vosa di Dentro, the trail descends toward the dramatic Isorno gorges.

After crossing the iron bridge, which replaced the original 16th-century stone span swept away by the flood of 1978, the path climbs toward Loco. Along the way, porticoed chapels that once offered shelter to weary travellers line the route. Niva, with its 16th-century lever press near the Isorno, occupies an enchanting setting. Its oratory, dedicated to St. John of Nepomuk, protector of those who cross bridges and waterways, is framed by spectacular terraced vineyards recently reclaimed from abandonment.

The trail passes through the hamlet of Rossa before arriving in Loco, once renowned for its straw craftsmanship. The village ethnographic museum is well worth a visit: beyond its permanent exhibition on valley life, it hosts temporary shows focused on the artists and writers who chose the Onsernone as their home. The parish church of San Remigio houses works by the local painter Giovanni Samuele Meletta and "The Last Supper" painted in 1683 by Gottfried Maes of Antwerp, a gift to the community from an emigrant who found fortune abroad. The beautifully restored old mill, maintained for educational purposes, is another highlight.

From Loco, a PostBus returns you to Locarno, completing a walk that feels like stepping through a living history book.