Ronco s/Ascona - Pizzo Leone

Few places along the shores of Lake Maggiore reward the eye quite like Ronco sopra Ascona. From the sun-warmed stone square of the church of San Martino, the lake unfolds below in a shimmering expanse of blue, the Brissago Islands floating like emerald jewels against the water. Above the village, Pizzo Leone rises to 1659 metres, its summit trail revealing ever more dramatic panoramas with every step. A two-hour walk from Porera -- a 10-minute drive from Ronco -- takes you through wildflower meadows and ancient woods to a peak where the view sweeps across the lake, the jagged silhouette of Ghiridone, and deep into the Centovalli and Valle Vigezzo on the Italian side, both dotted with charming mountain villages.

Itinerary: Pizzo Leone (5h, see map)

The tour begins at Ronco sopra Ascona, reached by car from Porto Ronco along the coastal road between Ascona and Brissago. Before heading upward, linger on the square of San Martino church -- the panorama over the Brissago Islands and the widest stretch of Lake Maggiore is magnificent even before the hike begins. Step inside the church to admire its richly frescoed nave and choir, decorated with stuccoes that catch the soft light. The cycle of frescoes in the choir is particularly remarkable: dating to 1491-92, they depict the allegories of the months in vivid colour.

With its closely packed stone houses and winding, narrow lanes, Ronco was once a village of peasants, winemakers, and emigrants. Its most celebrated son was Antonio Ciseri, born here in 1821, widely regarded as one of the foremost religious painters of 19th-century Italy. Ciseri spent much of his life in Florence, where he died at the age of seventy. The ground floor of his birthplace, overlooking the church square, now houses the Centro culturale Ciseri -- an art gallery and gift shop run by the 'Istituto Terapeutico La Motta' in Brissago.

For those who prefer a gentler outing to scaling Pizzo Leone -- though the summit is well worth the effort -- the panoramic via Gottardo Madonna offers a lovely alternative. This quiet, paved road with light traffic winds from Ronco all the way to Monte Verita in Ascona, with views opening at every turn. You can also walk in the opposite direction toward the hamlet of Fontana Martina, where a sweeping vista awaits.

The Pizzo Leone trail

From Ronco sopra Ascona, follow the main road and the signs to Arcegno along via Livurcio. At the crossroad of Gruppaldo, marked with a signpost, take the first road on the left following signs to Monti di Ronco. The route passes through a residential area perched above the lake, where the panorama alone is worth the drive. The road is fairly wide for the first few kilometres before narrowing significantly over the final 2-3 kilometre stretch.

Park just beyond the hamlet of Porera, where a gate closes the road to vehicles. The trail to Pizzo Leone (1659 metres) begins at the small church of Pozzuolo (1181 metres), climbing steadily for about two hours through Alpe Naccio (1395 metres). Before the final ascent, you will reach a panoramic viewpoint marked by a cross, where the path splits -- one route climbs directly to the peak, the other continues at a lower altitude along a flatter trail.

Take the uphill path. It weaves through fragrant woods and flowering pastures, with the lake, islands, and rugged peaks of Ghiridone revealed in ever-changing compositions. In June, the slopes blaze with Alpine rose in full bloom, bathing the meadows in a luminous wash of pink. At the summit, the reward is immense: a sweeping panorama that takes in not only the sparkling lake but the entire Alpine chain dominated by the imposing Monte Rosa, the scattered villages of the Centovalli in Switzerland, and the Valle Vigezzo stretching beyond the Italian border.

For the return, follow the same path back. At Alpe di Naccio, before reaching Casone, take the downward trail toward the small church of Pozzuolo rather than following the signs to Porera -- this keeps the homeward journey shorter and equally scenic.