For a panorama that captures the full sweep of greater Lugano -- from the shimmering gulf to the green depths of the Val Colla, with the Milan skyline silhouetted on the far horizon -- there is no finer vantage point than Monte Bar. The summit delivers an astonishing 360-degree view encompassing the Rhaetian, Valais, and Bernese Alps, the Monte Rosa massif, and on the clearest days, even the distant Apennines. Reaching the top requires a steep but thoroughly enjoyable two-hour walk through wildflower meadows and dappled woodland, setting out from Corticiasca in the municipality of Capriasca. At the foot of the peak, a modern mountain hut serves hearty Ticinese specialities -- the perfect reward for the climb.
Itinerary: Monte Bar (4h, see map)
To reach the trailhead, drive through the small town of Tesserete north of Lugano, continuing along the main road toward the village of Valcolla and on to Corticiasca. Park in this typical Ticinese village and follow the yellow signs from the village centre pointing the way to Monte Bar.
About an hour of easy walking through meadows and woodlands brings you to Alpe Musgatina, with stunning views opening up along the way: the Gulf of Lugano, the intricate branches of Lake Ceresio, and the Val Colla valley presided over by the jagged limestone columns of the Denti della Vecchia, whose pinnacles resemble ancient teeth against the sky. At Alpe Musgatina, a herd of Scottish Highland cattle grazes peacefully in the alpine grass.
From Alpe Musgatina, continue toward the Monte Bar mountain hut, reachable in about half an hour. Stop here for a taste of excellent local cuisine before tackling the final 30-minute ascent to the summit. At the top, the 360-degree panorama is staggering. Looking west, a new landscape reveals itself: the Vedeggio valley in the foreground gives way to Monte Tamaro and Monte Lema, behind which the Valais and Bernese Alps rise, culminating in the Monte Rosa massif. Eastward, the Val Colla stretches below, watched over by the Denti della Vecchia, with the Rhaetian Alps fading into the distance. To the south, the entire Lugano area spreads out, the Origlio and Muzzano lakes catching the light, the serpentine arms of Lake Ceresio reaching toward Milan and the airport of Malpensa, with the Apennines tracing a faint line at the edge of sight.
For the return, follow the same route back down.
Scenic Trail
Each June, the slopes of Monte Bar play host to the Scenic Trail -- widely regarded as one of the finest trail-running events in Europe. The race draws some 1,600 competitors from more than 30 countries, running across multiple categories. The course follows the ridges of the region through 3,800 metres of elevation change, with panoramic views that make every painful step worthwhile. In both 2015 and 2016, the Scenic Trail received the "Swiss Ultra Trail Awards" as the best trail-running race in Switzerland.
The Val Colla Valley
Often called the green lung of Lugano, the Val Colla is a lush natural retreat that became part of the expanded municipality following a referendum on November 20, 2011. Forests of beech, birch, spruce, chestnut, and larch blanket the slopes, interspersed with pastures where farmers once brought their cattle to graze through the warm months. When winter came, many valley residents set off on long journeys as itinerant "tinkerers," travelling through Ticino, Lombardy, and Piedmont to repair pots and utensils of all kinds -- especially those made from copper. The carriage road was built in the mid-nineteenth century. The river Cassarate, which flows through this valley of approximately 600 inhabitants, winds all the way through the city of Lugano before emptying into Lake Ceresio.
The Last Supper of Ponte Capriasca
Art lovers tackling Monte Bar should not miss a short detour to Ponte Capriasca, just a few minutes' drive from Corticiasca. From the trailhead, follow the signs to Tesserete and then to Ponte Capriasca.
The church of S. Ambrogio in Ponte Capriasca houses a magnificent copy of Leonardo da Vinci's celebrated "Last Supper," originally painted toward the end of the fifteenth century in the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan. This monumental reproduction, measuring 5.59 x 3.61 metres, was executed at the beginning of the sixteenth century by an unknown painter. Following the revolutionary approach of the Master, the figures are rendered with vivid emotional expression, their attitudes and gestures capturing the drama of the moment with striking psychological depth.
The painting has been recently restored and is in excellent condition. It stands as a powerful testament to the deep artistic bond that flourished between the Ticino region and the cultural world of Renaissance Milan.
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