Perched at 900 meters in the heart of the Centovalli Valley, Rasa is the kind of place that silences the restless mind. Reachable only on foot or by the cable car that climbs from Verdasio, this tiny hamlet feels suspended between earth and sky. Stone houses glow warm in the afternoon light, lovingly tended vegetable gardens perfume the air, and a stillness settles over everything that feels almost sacred. Around the little church dedicated to Saint Anne, old rural and noblemen's homes stand shoulder to shoulder, their weathered facades telling centuries of stories. Before you leave, linger over a meal at the grotto (tavern) -- then ride the cable car back down or set off on foot through the ancient hamlet of Bordei toward the beautiful village of Palagnedra.
The visit
Rasa was not always where it stands today. The original village sat lower, in the area now called Terra Vecchia, which you will cross if you follow the itinerary to Palagnedra. Over the centuries, the inhabitants gradually abandoned that older settlement and moved uphill, drawn by a remarkable turn of fortune. In 1631, after about fifty Bergamese and Valtellina laborers quit their posts at the Livorno border, emigrants from Rasa -- together with others from Palagnedra, Ronco and Terree di Pedemonte -- seized the opportunity, marking the beginning of an era of newfound prosperity. Those returning emigrants channelled their wealth into elegant houses and religious buildings, establishing the village anew on a sun-drenched plain with commanding views. The church of Saint Anne, graceful and serene, dates back to the first half of the 1700s.
Much like the neighbouring hamlet of Bordei, the ancient settlement of Terra Vecchia slowly succumbed to the forest, its buildings crumbling to ruins over the decades. Both villages have since been thoughtfully renovated by the Terra Vecchia Foundation, which is dedicated to the recovery and rehabilitation of drug addicts.
Until 1958, when the current cable car was built, Rasa remained almost entirely cut off from the outside world. Even today, that sense of splendid isolation persists -- step into the village and the frenetic pace of modern life simply falls away.
If you have more time...Itinerary: From Rasa to Palagnedra (4h, see map)
For those with time to spare, the walk from Rasa to Palagnedra is deeply rewarding -- a journey through rustic and noble architecture, quiet woods, and centuries of artistic heritage. Descend toward Terra Vecchia, where the namesake Foundation has painstakingly reconstructed the old centre. At the creek, climb uphill toward Bordei, another hamlet breathing new life thanks to the Foundation's work, before arriving in Palagnedra. Here, rustic houses stand side by side with stately residences, tangible evidence of a successful emigration tradition. Inside the choir of the old church of San Michele, an impressive collection of frescoes by Antonio da Tradate from the 1400s awaits discovery. Continue downhill toward the strikingly green artificial lake, where metal sculptures by artist Alain Garnier punctuate the roadside. From the train station, you can return to Locarno aboard the Centovallina or retrace your steps to the Verdasio cable car.
Note that the walk from the village of Palagnedra to the train station takes about 1 hour (no public transport available).
