Imagine an elegant open-air living room framed by centuries-old facades, the warm glow of cafe terraces, and the shimmer of Lake Lugano just steps away. Piazza della Riforma rivals Locarno's Piazza Grande for the title of Ticino's most beautiful square. Surrounded by stately buildings including the Neoclassical Palazzo Civico (Town Hall), it is the beloved gathering place of Lugano's residents -- the luganesi -- and host to countless events throughout the year. From this vibrant heart, a network of narrow pedestrian streets threads past glittering shop windows and luxurious boutiques, connecting the city's main treasures: the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the church of Santa Maria degli Angioli, LAC, and the lakefront.
Itinerary: Lugano's Historic Centre (2h, see map)
Begin at Piazza della Riforma and step into the courtyard of the Palazzo Civico, where a sculpture radiating strength and defiance commands your attention: the "Spartacus" by Ticino artist Vincenzo Vela (1820-1891), considered one of the foremost sculptors of 19th-century Italy.
Enter Via Nassa, a shopper's paradise lined with fine boutiques, and pause at the church of San Carlo Borromeo, built between 1640 and 1642. Continue to the church of Santa Maria degli Angioli (Saint Mary of Angels), which safeguards an early Renaissance masterpiece considered the most remarkable fresco of that period in Switzerland -- a sweeping portrayal of the Passion and the Crucifixion by Italian artist Bernardino Luini (circa 1480-1532), a pupil of Leonardo da Vinci. Beside the church stands the modern LAC cultural centre (Lugano Arte e Cultura).
The itinerary follows the lakeside beneath a double canopy of trees that traces the graceful boundary between water and city. One of the most captivating pauses is the Belvedere garden, a flowering terrace to the left of Santa Maria degli Angioli where colourful flowerbeds, sculpted bushes, century-old trees, and an open-air collection of artwork create a serene interlude between nature and culture.
Continue along the lakefront back toward Piazza della Riforma, then take Via Nassa once more. Cross Piazzetta Maraini to discover one of the most charming corners of the city: Via Pessina, where venerable buildings house shops selling local products. Arriving in Piazza Cioccaro, admire the Palazzo Riva-Ghioldi, one of Lugano's oldest buildings, beautifully preserved through careful restorations.
Climb Via Cattedrale to the terrace before the Cathedral of Saint Laurence, where a sweeping view of the city unfolds. Beyond its Renaissance facade (1517), the cathedral guards precious frescoes from the 14th and 16th centuries. Return to Piazza Cioccaro and follow Via Soave to Piazza Dante, where the church of Sant'Antonio (Saint Anthony) displays works by Petrini and frescoes by the Torricelli brothers. Continue through Contrada dei Verla and Via Giosuè Carducci to the church of San Rocco, home to rare frescoes by G. Discepoli. Behind this graceful church lies the Quartiere Maghetti, a lively shopping quarter.
From here, set your sights on Villa Ciani, visible in the distance. Cross Piazza Indipendenza (Independence Square), adorned with a 17th-century obelisk erected in memory of the clash between the Lugano Volunteers and the Cisalpine Army in 1789, and make your way to the villa and the magnificent Ciani Park beyond it.
The park and villa date to the 19th century, when the Ciani brothers, Milanese noblemen, acquired the property in 1845. Over the following years, a succession of embellishments transformed the grounds into a luxuriant tapestry of oaks, lindens, plane trees, palms, and olive trees, complemented by camellias and azaleas that burst into glorious bloom each spring. Even in the cooler months, the flowerbeds glow with colourful, fragrant corollas. Within the park, beyond Villa Ciani, you will find the Biblioteca cantonale (Cantonal Library), a 1940s building designed by architects Rino and Carlo Tami (restored in 2004-2005), and the Museo Cantonale di storia naturale (Cantonal Museum of Natural History). The park reaches its tranquil conclusion at the River Cassarate.
Guided Tours
From April to October, a variety of guided tours explore the city's hidden stories and landmarks. For information and reservations, contact Lugano Tourist Office (phone 058 220 65 06 - [email protected]).
